Point Roberts

In 1846 the 49th parallel, already established as the Canada-U.S. border east of the Rockies, was extended to the Pacific coast (with a dip south to include all of Vancouver Island within Canada). One result of that extension was the creation of a tiny U.S. (Washington State) peninsula south of Tsawwassen.

This little blip of land has become a favored spot for seasonal Canadian residents. The shallowness of the bay allows the sun to warm long stretches of exposed sand, and incoming tides create a huge, warm bathtub where small children can play safely. It’s one of the top 15 beaches in the U.S.

Native Indians used this spit occasionally as they crossed the Strait or were blown off course. The first settlers were Icelandic farmers. Farming was marginal; fishing was excellent. Before fish traps were outlawed in the 1930s, fishing was the main industry, and canneries and taverns provided the main source of employment, although during prohibition rum-running was profitable.

After World War II Canadians looking for fun visited Point Roberts to drink beer at two of the largest taverns in America, The Reef and Breakers. They picnicked, drank beer and bought cheap property. Around 1949 most of the residents wanted to secede: they shopped in, and bought their papers, groceries and gas, from Canada, and services were provided by Canada including the Delta fire brigade. B.C. Telephone serviced the area until 1988. One big factor for staying American was access to the Fraser River salmon runs.

The year 1959 was pivotal for “The Point.” The Deas Island (Massey) Tunnel opened and “Boozing Canadians Leave Point Roberts a Hangover,” read headlines in a Vancouver paper as thousands could now drive directly for “Sudsday” beer. A famous bumper sticker read “Sunday Services at the Breakers.” X-rated movies came next and residents were worried that their little spit was becoming “Sin City.” An International Joint Committee ran a feasibility study to see if Point Roberts could become a national park and concluded only Canada would benefit. Lighthouse Park’s 7 hectares, with a boat launch, campsites and picnic areas served residents and visitors.

Water was always the problem. Wells went dry in the summer, and Canadians often brought their own water to cabins. In 1964 a water system was installed, but during the drought of 1973, water was a contentious issue. Signs read “Canadians Go Home,” and “disaster area.” Unless water for drinking and emergencies was supplied by Delta, the water board threatened to cut off the 850 Canadian residents. Truckloads of water from Blaine alleviated the problem temporarily. Permanent water from Canada became available in 1986.

Water brought development, but there are no sewers. Septic systems determine what and where you can build. Three golf courses are planned and Point Roberts now has a marina, small airport, two taverns, restaurants, gas bars, a marketplace, an art gallery, clothing store, bike shop, hairdresser and a monthly newspaper. The five real estate offices still sell mostly to Canadians, and two sheriffs zealously monitor crime. Customs is open 24 hours, has a PACE lane and cameras to read license plates.

Movie industry employees have discovered it’s an easy commute for the dozens of movies shooting in Vancouver. But where else can Canadians drive 30 minutes out of Vancouver, hop in their boat, put down a crab trap, catch a salmon and have a barbecue for the neighbors on a crime-free, quiet spit of land where properties are relatively inexpensive? That’s Point Roberts.